TL;DR
Glenn Martens presented Maison Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2027 ready-to-wear collection during Paris Fashion Week, a week after announcing his departure from Diesel. The collection set stiff tailoring against fluid dresses and introduced or revisited accessories and shoes, including the Ghost line, Heel-less styles and ruched Tabi Heel Clogs.
Glenn Martens presented Maison Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2027 ready-to-wear collection in Paris, pairing firm tailoring and corset-like construction with dresses shaped by deep, fluid folds. The show arrived a week after Martens announced his departure from Diesel, placing a new collection for the Parisian house in focus as the designer’s professional plans shift.
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The collection began with the trench coat, reworked with stiffened panels that wrapped around the waist or ran down the sides of the body. Other looks used draping to create a balcony-like frame around the torso, while some cowl dresses had heavy folds that fell toward the ankle. Oversized darts, hardened in appearance and cut across the waist of crewneck dresses, added another version of the contrast between structure and movement.
One construction detail joined coat linings directly to floral dresses split open at the back. Flowers also appeared as prints on dresses and coats. Belgian floral artist Mark Colle designed the show set with blooms that appeared past their peak, a visual counterpoint to the flowers preserved in full bloom on the garments, according to Hypebae’s report.
Accessories and shoes extended the collection’s mix of familiar forms and changed materials. The 5AC Soft returned in softer leather, while the new Ghost line reworked classic bag shapes including a briefcase and vanity case. The Link appeared in suede, including a waxed, pleated version, and the Glam Slam incorporated floral designs. Shoes included concealed-heel boots and open-toe pumps, new Slide heel mules, and ruched Tabi Heel Clogs alongside Tabi boots and ballerinas.
Martens Reframes Margiela Codes
The presentation offers an early view of how Martens is shaping Maison Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2027 wardrobe: familiar items such as the trench, Tabi shoes and established bag families appear alongside altered proportions, surface treatments and construction. For readers following the house, the collection’s main point of interest is the way these recognizable forms are set against drapery and softer materials.
The show also comes amid a change in Martens’ career. His announced departure from Diesel was reported a week before the Margiela presentation. The source does not say when that departure takes effect or describe what he will do next, but the timing makes the new collection a notable marker of his work at Margiela during this transition in his roles.
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A Week After the Diesel News
Hypebae reported that Martens announced his official departure from Diesel one week before unveiling the Margiela collection. The article identifies the runway presentation as the house’s Spring/Summer 2027 ready-to-wear collection at Paris Fashion Week. It does not provide further detail on the Diesel announcement or a schedule for Martens’ next steps.
The collection’s set was designed by Mark Colle, a Belgian floral artist. Hypebae links the flowers to Colle’s work on Raf Simons’ first couture collection for Dior in 2012, describing the Margiela set as a return to that visual memory. The report also frames the gesture as fitting with the house’s habit of revisiting and reissuing things it values; that is the publication’s interpretation of the reference.
“A beautiful investigation into structural rigidity and fluid drapery.”
— Hypebae’s description of Glenn Martens’ collection
Details of Martens’ Departure
The source confirms that Martens announced his departure from Diesel a week before the Margiela show, but does not state when the departure takes effect, who will succeed him at Diesel, or what his plans are after the announcement. It also offers no sales, business or audience figures for the Margiela collection. The report describes the designs and presentation, but does not establish how the collection will perform commercially or when individual pieces will be available.
Awaiting Collection and Career Details
The immediate next points to watch are any further information from Diesel or Martens about the departure, and details from Maison Margiela about the retail timing and availability of the Spring/Summer 2027 pieces. Hypebae’s report does not give a release calendar. The presentation itself provides the confirmed view of the collection for now; information on production, pricing and the designer’s next professional steps remains outstanding.
Key Questions
What was Maison Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection about?
Hypebae describes it as a study in rigid construction and fluid drapery, including structured trench coats, corset-like shaping and dresses with deep folds.
Who designed the collection?
Glenn Martens presented the collection for Maison Margiela during Paris Fashion Week.
What bags and shoes appeared in the report?
The report mentions the 5AC Soft, a new Ghost line, suede Link bags and floral Glam Slam bags. Footwear included concealed-heel styles, Slide heel mules and ruched Tabi Heel Clogs, as well as Tabi boots and ballerinas.
What is known about Martens’ departure from Diesel?
Hypebae reports that he announced his official departure from Diesel a week before the Margiela show. The report does not give an effective date or name a successor.
Source: rss
